It is necessary to remove the
Cylinder Head, flywheel, oil pan, baffle plate, oil pump, and pickup, but when starting at the cylinder bores tops, always inspect to see that there are not wear ridges that can cause the damage of the piston. Mark each piston crown with the number of that piston so that you can identify it, No 1 at timing belt end. Using feeler gauges measure the thrust clearance of each connecting rod and tabulate the results. Depending on the case, loosen the retaining screw, and squeegee the piston cooling jets out, moving carefully not to damage any pressure relief valves. Turn the crankshaft until the bottom dead center occurs with pistons No 1 and 4, marking the bearing caps and connecting rods with their corresponding piston numbers, and drawing alignment arrows to aid reassembling. Carefully unbolt the bearers cap bolts/nuts and remove the bottom shell bearing and make sure that in case the shell bearings are re-used, they are fitted on the same connecting rod. When removing the piston, pad the threads of bolts with an insulating tape to ensure that the crankpins are not scratched. Blast the shoes out with a dowel or a handle of a hammer, and collect the shell bearings as they come out on the top. Two and three pistons Turning the crankshaft Retain components in their groups of cylinders. With a small flat-bladed screwdriver, pry the wrist pin circlips off each piston and push out the wrist pin and then part the piston and connecting rod, discarding the circlips. Carefully remove old
Piston Rings either with a remover tool or an old feeler gauge and clean the ring grooves of carbon deposits without scraping off the grooves. Wipe down the pistons and connecting rods using solvent and ensure that the oil return holes are not clogged and look at the wear or damage. Scuffing or scoring could mean that there is overheating or combustion problems, and corrosion pits marks indicate that there was coolant leak. Inspect cracks on the pistons, connecting rods, wrist pins, bearing caps and the diameter of all four pistons at a given point and compare with the specification to ascertain whether one needs to replace or not. Measure piston clearance and check ring-to-groove clearance using a feeler gauge and be careful to use correct thickness of the ring. Measure internal diameter of connecting rod small-end and external diameter of wrist pin and clearance determined to determine whether resizing is necessary. Assembling Back when assembling, have the piston crown arrow facing the end of the timing belt and flex the connecting rod and bearing cap recesses accordingly. Wipe the wrist pin and bushing in the small end of the piston with clean engine oil, slightly slide the pin into the piston and install new circlips, with the open ends toward the removal slot. Do the same to the other pistons.