Do not drive the car without a thermostat since the computer could be in open loop mode and this will adversely affect the emissions and fuel economy. The coolant level, drivebelt tension, and temperature gauge are the things to be checked before concluding that the thermostat is malfunctioning. When the engine takes long to warm up then the thermostat is probably stuck open and needs to be changed. In case the engine is hot, but the upper
Radiator hose is not hot, the thermostat can be stuck shut, and thus will not allow coolant to escape to the radiator, and must also be changed. When the upper radiator hose is hot this means that coolant is running and therefore the thermostat is open. With the aim of replacing the thermostat, lift the front of the vehicle and place it on jackstands, dislodge the splash shield and drain the radiator of the coolant, saving it in case it is in good condition. In the case of V6 engines, the radiator support panel should be installed in the service position. Find the thermostat housing cover by tracing the bottom of the radiator hose to the engine; on four-cylinder engines it is on the driver side of the bottom of the water pump housing and on the V6 engines, it is in the front of the engine block. Press the tabs on the hose clamp and remove the hose off the thermostat housing cover being careful not to spill the coolant onto the timing belt. The cover fitting can be worn-out and in this case, it can be replaced. Unscrew the bolts/nuts to loosen the thermostat cover, ensure the orientation of how the thermostat was installed and the cover O-ring. Wipe the mating surfaces, mount the new thermostat as in with the appropriate end of the thermostat towards the outside, and a new O-ring on top and then re-mount the thermostat housing cover. Tighten the bolts to the required torque and may think of checking and changing hoses and clamps. Lastly, reverse the unloading process, fill up and bleed the system, and start the engine and leakages.