Crankshaft could be removed only when the engine is out of the car, and supposing that the flywheel/driveplate, timing belt, oil pan, oil pump, front and rear oil seal housings, and the piston/connecting rod assemblies have been disassembled. Check the endplay before removal by clamping a dial indicator to its snout, the stem should be aligned with the crankshaft. Take the crankshaft to the back and make the dial indicator zero, followed by prying on the crankshaft to the front and re-checking the dial; the distance moved will show the endplay. In case it is greater than specification, inspect crankshaft thrust surfaces on wear and in case there is no wear, new main bearings could correct the problem. In case of the absence of a dial indicator, feeler gauges could be employed by thrusting the crankshaft forward and inserting the gauges in the crankshaft-thrust main bearing interface to detect clearance. Thrust bearing is found at the number three main bearing cap in the four cylinder engine and four on the V6 engine. Check the main bearing caps, which should have markings showing their positions, numbered in the front to the rear, or mark them accordingly. Unscrew the main bearing cap bolts slowly in order to be able to remove them with a hand, keeping track of any stud bolts so that they can be re-attached properly. Tap the caps with a soft-face hammer to keep them off of the engine block, and use bolts as levers, whenever needed, and be careful never to drop the bearing inserts. The crankshaft is to be carefully lifted out of the engine with or without help since it is heavy and care should be taken not to scuff the reluctor ring where the crankshaft position sensor is mounted. Install bearing inserts and replace the caps at their locations on the engine block and tighten the bolts to finger tight.